Famous names and fascinating characters

As reported, we left the Macon Laize campsite on the morning of Sunday 15th August and over the next three days visited some of the most famous places in the Burgundy region of France, including Cluny, Volnay, Beaune and Nuits-St-Georges, driving through some of the best-known wine villages on the “Route des Grandes Crus”. The weather has been mixed, with some very heavy rain at times, but mainly dull and cloudy. As such we were pleased that we were not getting bored with the lack of sun at a campsite, instead were tasting wine after wine!

Cluny (see photo) is an historical treasure trove, important within the Christian religion, where once stood the largest abbey in Europe. The abbey was destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries and we visited the only remaining sections from the thirteenth century, the visit enhanced by the use of state of the art technology called ‘augmented reality’, where by moving the screens dotted around the ruins, the pictures revealed how sections of the building would have looked when it was built. The little town itself was delightful and actually open on a Sunday which is unusual, with beautiful traditional shop fronts and cobbled streets. We bought the usual souvenirs – guide book, fridge magnet and printed pencil, special because this year Cluny is celebrating the 1100 anniversary of the first Abbey.

Our night stop was in a small town called Nolay, which meant driving north for about an hour through some villages growing famous wines including Buxy, Givry, Mercurey and Rully. Victor got very excited and was looking forward to tasting Monsieur’s wines at our night stop, Domaine Nicolas. As I have explained before, we choose these places simply from a directory which does not include photographs, and once again, Victor did us proud as once we had driven up the steep hill out of Nolay centre ville, we realised that our parking spot had yet another view to die for, right across the town and the vines beyond. That evening we had booked to eat dinner at a small hotel in Nolay, which meant a half hour walk downhill, but we were inspired by the generous wine tastings of their Aligote 2009, a Saint-Romaine, and a red Santenay. The credit card was flexed once again! The meal that evening was truly memorable, especially as we met a charming Englishman who was travelling alone, and who was a regular at the hotel over many summers, and coincidentally, had bought wine from Domaine Nicolas on a number of occasions and could commend it. John recommended the traditional Bourgogne starter of Eggs en meurette, and despite the eleven euros price tag I could not refuse, and boy, was it worth it! Three eggs poached in a sauce made from the dregs of red wine from the bottom of barrels, mixed with diced bacon and mushrooms. Victor had twelve snails in garlic butter – almost as impressive but not quite! While we were eating and enjoying John’s company, it started to rain heavily. We did not have our macs, but the chef himself (and owner of the family hotel) offered us a lift up the hill in his car so all was well!
The following day was dull and damp, and after a coffee stop at the hotel again (it wasn’t strictly open but Patrice took pity on us and helped us out for a second time!), we set off to rediscover Beaune, a city we have visited four years ago when we had a practice run holiday in France (although we did not know it at the time!). On the way we were forced to call in at another Wine Cave, a large off-licence really, but one selling the wine en vrac, straight from enormous barrels into whatever container you turn up with, and so much cheaper per litre than in the bottles.

Then on up the wine route again, with Victor keen to call into the village of Volnay, whose vines produce a classic red wine we have traditionally enjoyed with our Christmas goose! We randomly picked one of the many vineyards to taste the wine, and it was just an incredible hour or so. The young winemaker, Francois Buffet, showed us down into a typical dark musty cellar where the shelves were crammed with bottles of wine, available to taste and buy. (See photo) But even more fascinating, deep in the recesses were ancient glass bottles, all stuck together with dust, labelled with their bottling dates. We saw bottles from 1915, 1929 and 1947, all good vintage years. Monsieur Buffet explained that the bottles still contain wine, but they cannot be moved as the corks would disintegrate. Instead occasionally wealthy patrons will invite friends or clients to a dinner party in the cellar, where the bottles are opened where they sit and the wine decanted. At several thousand pounds a bottle, we did not make a reservation! We bought some Volnay though! Looks like it’s goose again for Christmas this year!

We eventually made it into the city of Beaune and after going round the one way system two or three times, we found the Motor home car park. It was well into the afternoon by now, and looking around it was clear that other motor home owners were preparing to spend the night right there. As we did not have a night stop booked we decided to join them so that we could spend more time enjoying the city. And so we did, even finding a silent movie festival taking place in one of their lovely old buildings, with a live pianist accompanying the films. After a picnic dinner in our van (Beaune restaurants are very overpriced), we walked back into the centre and had a lot of fun laughing at Charlie Chaplin, Harold Lloyd and a French star we did not know, Max Linder. The night was actually incredible quiet, and to be honest I had one of the best night’s sleep of the holiday – who would have believed it! The following morning we walked the fifteen minutes back in for some shopping and a coffee, with the weather brightening.

We left Beaune on the north road, heading once more on the Route des Grands Crus and finding more famous wine villages in the area known as Cotes de Nuit, the most northern area of Bourgogne wine region. The major village is Nuit-St-George and this was our lunch time treat, as I’d missed out on dinner in Beaune. Nuit is a pretty little place with an imaginative use of water features in the central restaurant area and a number of very classy expensive wine shops. This time we resisted! Over lunch we debated which France Passion night stop to call for that evening and considered a number. Deciding to get ourselves closer to Autun, our destination the following day, we chose a little wine grower in a town called St Leger, which sits on the picturesque Dheune Canal. They were happy to accommodate us, and at about six o’clock we arrived at the little farm and were greeted by a short gentleman in overalls and a flat cap – Jean-Yves Renaud is a medal winning wine grower and could not have been more different than the young man in Volnay. He showed us into his equally dark damp cellar, just next to the barn where he keeps his tractor, and immediately began to pour large glasses of his best wines, plus a sample of his own ‘hooch’ which he admitted was 25% proof and kept just for the motor home visitors! (See photo) It was hilarious and when Madam turned up with a plate cheeses, we knew we had struck gold. Monsieur revealed that he was about to start bottling his 2009 stock next week. Now as we loved his wines, and 2009 is meant to be one of the great years, we are destined to return to his place next Thursday to pick up a few more boxes of the new stuff. Where on earth are we going to put it in the already overloaded van? We returned to the van for supper feeling very tipsy indeed!

So on Wednesday we drove to Autun, did some food shopping and subsequently arrived in pouring rain at our next campsite, La Gagere, a site we visited four years ago and enjoyed immensely. I will save the details of this place for the next blog, but I will say that we are probably finishing the campsites with the best view from the van yet. Photo next time! Take care. Oh, and the rain cleared and we have now had two glorious hot days. Long may it continue!